1001 Tales of Chaos and Beauty

A reflection on life as an expat and teacher in Abu Dhabi in early 2012.

Weather. Did you know that March is sandstorm month here in UAE? Today I awoke again to another hazy, windy, sandy morning. The sandstorms are not as dramatic as in the scene from the recent Mission Impossible film but can still pose problems for driving, daily living and basic breathing and seeing techniques. Instead of dust on the floor, I have sand. I even find it in my ears after even a short jaunt to the grocery store. And sunglasses are a must. I had either pnuemonia or bronchitus (the doctors diagreed) back in January after never having any of these illnesses before. I think it was the sand in the air.

Fog. Unexpectedly, fog can be an issue as well. A few weeks back I awoke to fog unlike anything I had ever seen before. As I opened the curtains at an ungodly 6:30 am I had to blink my bleary eyes and pinch myself to make sure I wasn't dreaming: a wall of dense, smokey fog outside my window. If you held your arm out directly in front of you, your hand would have gotten lost in the endless smokiness. I only thought of one thing: fog day! Students will be late! It's similar to a 'snow day' at home. And back to bed I went.

The job. It's impossible to describe what my days are like. I try to explain the chaos that is my school to the folks at home and I realize it's impossible. You don't believe me. You think I am exaggerating. One day I will make a secret documentary film and it will knock your socks off. It will be called 1001 Tales of the Delights of Teaching at Al Mafraq School. "Have you tried this/these insert classroom management strategy here?" Oh dear. I have tried IT ALL. Including and not limited to locking myself in my classroom and turning off the lights in the hopes that after kicking in the vending machine window and stealing all the money, they will not come after me asking me for chocoate any more. Please, I invite you to come and be my shadow for a day. You will not believe your eyes. Yes, these are the docile, polite, obedient girls I had hoped I would be teaching.

And yet, student behaviour is the least of the problem. Each day I arrive at school there could be numerous suprises waiting for me. Nothing is planned, and if it is planned it's not communicated. For instance, timetable changes are a weekly occurance. Then there was the spontaneous mock-wedding the teachers planned last week. Spontaneous whole school breakfasts and awards ceremonies with lavish gifts happen often. Then, having to wait until the girls are tucked away in class to let a male computer technician come to the office to connect a printer. These are things that are now my 'normal' but that have forced me to become extraordinarily flexible.

Giving up? Not a chance. And yet, I am far from giving up. That's not in my nature. As my mom will tell you, I was born to be stubborn. And it's not that I refuse to give up out of any sort of fear or spite. If I am truly honest with myself, I just don't feel like leaving. And trust me, if Iwant to go, I go. If I have had enough, I can't stop myself.

But the reason is probably much more profound: the sun. And the roof top pool after school.

Meditation. Meditation is the name of my game now. How to meditate with ones eyes open in the middle of a chaotic classroom where girls are walking on the tables, sniffing glue, throwing open water bottles at each other, and screaming in my ear 'Teacher, sweet? Teacher, chocolate?' All while I try to teach a lesson on the simple past. It is an art. I can tell you how in theory. Well, at least I am trying to learn.

"I am a soul." "I am peace, love and happiness." Is the mantra I repeat to myself while the chaos whirls around me and my long skirts. It kind of helps. It also helps to wear ear plugs. And I just walk around singing la la la sometimes.

Why do I stay? For now, I still feel like I can plant some seeds. And I realize that so much of the chaos doesn't really matter any way. And don't get me wrong, I embellish a little here for the sake of keeping this posting more interesting. My students are good as they can be, they behave like this in every class, some way worse than mine, because of the lack of consistency, routine, and discipline in the school as a whole. They tell me they love me every day and make me feel like a minor celebrity most of the time. And as you will see from the pictures below, somehow most of them get their work done.

I am completely overwhelmed by what my senses bring in to me each day and I need time to process. I know that there is more to this than meets the eye. And I am learning to filter all the rubbish. That's an important life skill. And there is so much rubbish to filter!

1001 tales of Arabian Nights here in the desert. One thousand and one. Ten Oh One. Did you know my apartment number is 1001? Someone recently told me that in numerology this number symbolizes new beginnings. I'd say that's about right. I want to see where this goes, after all it can't be all sand, smoke and mirrors.

Finally settled after eight months and ready for the good stuff.

Some pictures to help paint the picture:

A student project on Shakespeare

A student project on Benazir Bhutto

A recent exhibition of my students' work:
a birthday present to an extraordinary person

Dubai - around the Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa

Dubai

And some photos from a recent trip to Nepal at the holidays...